Two hundred stalls across a dozen sites, and a fair question about whether they are still worth standing in.
Manchester’s markets started in 1999 with a handful of German stalls in St Ann’s Square and grew into one of the largest Christmas market operations in Britain — around 200 stalls spread over roughly a dozen sites across the centre, running from early November to just before Christmas.
They are a genuine driver of the city’s winter economy and they are also, at peak times, extremely unpleasant.
Where they are
The markets moved to Piccadilly Gardens as the main site after Albert Square was closed for the Town Hall works, with Cathedral Gardens, Exchange Square, St Ann’s Square, King Street and New Cathedral Street all hosting clusters.
The sites are spread out, which is presented as a feature and is really a consequence of the Albert Square closure. It means a lot of walking between them.
What you get
Food. Bratwurst, raclette, Dutch pancakes, hog roast, churros, and a great many things served in a cardboard tray. It is good, and it is priced for a captive audience.
Mulled wine and beer, served in a souvenir mug with a deposit. The mug changes each year and people collect them, which is either charming or an extremely effective margin decision depending on your mood.
Gifts. Candles, wooden decorations, sheepskin, jewellery, hot sauce, ceramics. A proportion is genuinely handmade by regional makers; a proportion is imported and identical to what you would find at any market in Europe.
The honest view
If you have never been to a Christmas market, Manchester’s is a good one and the atmosphere on a cold weekday afternoon with the lights on is real.
If you have been to Vienna’s or Prague’s, this will not surprise you, and it costs more per item than either.
It is not a cheap day out. Two people eating and having two drinks each will spend more than a decent restaurant lunch would cost.
The crowds at peak are the main problem. December Saturdays around Exchange Square and Piccadilly are close to gridlocked, prams and wheelchairs struggle badly, and the queue for a mug of mulled wine can run twenty minutes.
Better alternatives in the same weeks: the covered indoor markets, the independent shops in the Northern Quarter, and the smaller markets in Stockport, Altrincham and Bury, all reachable on the Metrolink or a short train, all quieter, and all with more distinctive stock.
